The Collapse is the clearest expression of the idea. Its calfskin upper has elasticized sides, a removable leather insole, and a rubber sole measuring only seven millimeters. Prada is charging four figures for a shoe whose primary visual achievement is appearing to have almost no structure at all.

That fragility is what makes it appealing. The leather wrinkles, the sole nearly disappears, and the shoe follows the shape of the foot instead of constructing a new one around it. It looks more like something designed for movement than protection.

Dries Van Noten does not pretend otherwise. The shoe is officially named after the ballet flat. Its snakeskin-printed calfskin upper, lambskin lining, and signature thin sole make it the dressiest of the group.

It looks less like a sneaker designed for running and more like a formal shoe that has been relieved of its responsibilities.

The Sprinter combines goat leather, calf leather, hairy suede, and a studded rubber sole. It still has the narrow stance and low 1.5-centimeter heel, but its layered construction gives it more substance than the others.

It looks like an actual track shoe remembered incorrectly—which is usually where Margiela is strongest. It wins because it still behaves like a sneaker.